Monday, September 8, 2025

August 20, 2025 – Reykjavik, Iceland – Beautiful Sunny Day – 50F

August 20, 2025 – Reykjavik, Iceland 

We have been on this ship for a month and on the last day, when I had to be up early and out, I actually overslept.  I got up at 6:05 AM (the Oceanview Café was already open) and got up to the café as fast as I could.  The place was pretty crowded but I did get a window seat.  It is an absolutely beautiful day in Reykjavik – bright Sun and blue skies.  We are docked next to Mein Shiff 2. The Viking Mars was across the way.

I had some oatmeal, two pancakes with cottage cheese (it was still there waiting for me on the last day – I wonder if they will realize that I’m off the ship and put it back in the fridge).  I sampled the eggs with cheese and chives (cold and dry) and didn’t even finish my pancakes because I felt I was running late.

I brought Ellen her breakfast (cream cheese and lox on a brioche, fruit, and hot tea). 

We are due to leave our stateroom around 8:30 AM and hop on the ship shuttle to KEF at 9:00 AM.  We went to The Den to listen for groups to be called – Ellen asked around and it looked like everyone was just getting off.  We got in the line and scanned out and then got into a much longer line for our face-to-face with Iceland Immigration. This gave me a chance to get a picture of Quest docked.

The Immigration people were in trailers and the line was outside – the line moved pretty well.  We said goodbye to Martin at the trailer and the Immigration process was quick (I had said my goodbyes to Bernardo last night when he gave me back my jump drive – he also gave me an Azamara Jump Drive as a souvenir). 

We found our bags right away and were shown to the bus by a kid – maybe 12 – working with the port folks.  We got seats of our own and the bus left shortly after everyone got seated.  The 40 minute ride to KEF was comfortable and scenic – lots of lava and one perfect cinder cone in the distance. 

There was also a golf course on this route.

Keflavik (KEF) is a small airport located on a peninsula west of Reykjavik. 

We had done some research on the airport and how early we could check our bags.  The information we got said that you couldn’t check bags any earlier than two and half hour prior to flight time.  That would mean a long time with our bags and where would be have to stay until we could check the bags. 

That turned out not to be the case (the internet isn't always correct).  Once inside the airport, we checked with someone and she told us to use the kiosks to take care of our bags.  It was now around 10 AM or so but I entered the Booking Codes and the machine printed out both bag tags and boarding passes.  We then went to the bag drop that was totally automated.  You put your bag on the belt – scan your bag tag and then the machine scans your bag as well (looking for the little tags on your suit case).  It then says OK and your bags disappear into wherever bags go.  Easy and very neat.

We went upstairs to the Security Check Point and there was no one there except us and two agents.  Laptops needed to scanned along – even my watch needed to be scanned.  Then through the metal detector and into the airport.

KEV is more of a mall than airport.  Lots of shops and lots of seating.  Most of the seats are uncomfortable but there are some padded seats as well.  There weren't a lot of people at KEF at his point.

The food areas started to open around Noon and that’s when all the people showed up. 

Perhaps, and it doesn’t seem feasible, KEF only has post lunchtime flights.  For whatever reason, the airport started to get crowded.

Today, we broke our pattern and decided to buy lunch and have the food we brought for dinner on the plane.  Lunch consisted of a Margherita Pizza (3199 ISK and a Coke Zero (499 ISK – she only charged me for one of the two I asked for) at a restaurant called Trattoria in the Adalstraeti (Food Hall).  That came to $31.11.  The pizza was baked in a pizza oven and took about 10 minutes and came with charged crust – I liked the pizza – it was the first decent pizza we have had in over a month – we didn’t get pizza on the ship.  Lunch was a bit pricey but not a surprise since this was both in an airport and in Iceland.  No matter, it was good.

Our flight, F1853 (I guess “F” is Icelandair’s Code), is leaving from a “D” Gate but the exact number won’t be on the screen until 2:55 PM or about 40 minutes before we board – reminded me of Heathrow where you had to sprint for your gate when it came up.  The entrance to the D Gates was closed so there was no way to go there early and get seats. 

We checked the D Gate entrance in a few minutes and it has opened even though no gate number appeared on the information screens.  There are turnstyles that are opened by scanning your boarding passes and we were able to get to the D Corridor.  By this time, there were quite a few folks there.  When we went through the scanning process, the LED Screen said to “proceed to D24” so we did.  There weren’t a lot of seats near our gate but we did manage to get a couple.  We also were recognized by a couple of ship folks also waiting for their flight.

I checked the screen information at Gate D24 and indeed we were at the right gate.  There was no plane there – there were some aircraft from Iceland’s Low Price Airline, Play (they have the coolest all bright red planes). 

Boarding for our 4:25 PM departure was at 3:45 PM and people were already starting to line up (about 15 minutes early).  At 3:45 PM, we got in line (the Economy Line).  Even though there was no plane at our gate, the fancy folks started to board (passport and boarding pass required).  After they went through, they are gathered at the entrance to the gate.  In a few minutes, a bus arrived and it looked like our plane was somewhere else at KEF.

That bus left and it took about 10 minutes more to start our check-in (a new bus had appeared).  I almost didn’t get on the bus with Ellen as the tried to close the exit – I told the guy that I was with her and he let me on.  We drove to the other side of the terminal where our aircraft was waiting.  Instead of taking the stairs from the tarmac, we walked up a level to the jetway and got on the plane.  It seemed a little more complicated than it needed to be.

It may seem chaotic because Icelandair does not board by groups or row number but we all got on the jet smoothly enough.  Just as I thought everyone was on board two additional groups of people showed up – standby and connecting passengers, maybe – and all went to the rear of the plane.  We paid $95 each for premium seats (6.5 hour flight) and are in port bulkhead seats, 5A and 5B, on our MAX9 (that’s comparable to American and much less than United would charge).  The most legroom we have every had on a plane – I could fully stretch out my legs.  The only issue is the plastic divider between economy and first class and the swing up monitors.  To get out of the row, you have to avoid these two things by ducking and watching your feet.  Still, all that legroom and a window – I may have already gotten these seats on American or United and I don’t remember them being so roomy. 

The plane was nice although I couldn’t fully stand up in the washrooms.  Amenities are minimal on Icelandair – only soft drinks (and not always the can) and coffee or tea. No snacks at all – all the food on the plane has to be brought on or purchased on board.  We had food donated by the ship that would serve as dinner (lox and cream cheese on brioches plus crunchy snacks we brought from home a month ago). 

Despite the confusion during boarding, the plane actually pushed at 4:25 PM (on time).  KEF is small enough that the plane headed right for the active runway and spent no time waiting until the pilot gunned the engines.  I did notice that the flaps and slats are deployed late in Icelandair’s checklist but I did have confidence that these pilots knew what they were doing. 

The takeoff over the town of Keflavik on the Reykjanes Peninsula was smooth and scenic.  

The skies were blue and filled with high pressure clouds.  The plane climbed to about 14,000 feet and the pilot turned off the seat belt sign (US pilots usually wait until cruising altitude) and then leveled of at about 36,000 feet and headed for the southern tip of Greenland.  We never got to see the Prince Christian Sound on the cruises and won’t from the air due to the cloud cover.

The flight was smooth – no turbulence whatsoever.  We crossed the Labrador Sea, Labrador

the northern part of Quebec and finally the clouds broke so I could see farmland below.  We flew over Lake Huron and then over Lake Michigan – headed way West and turned around and landed at ORD at around 6 PM.  I texted Danny, who was waiting in the cellphone lot.  So glad he is picking us up,

We then walked literally a mile to the Global Entry Kiosks – endless long hallways, some with moving sidewalks, some without.  This might have been the longest walk yet to go from one place to another in an airport.  The scans at the Global Entry Kiosks took no time at all (no one in line) and we were handed our GLOBAL ENTRY PASSED laminated cards (needed to exit).  We waited quite a while at Carousel 6 until our bags finally came out.  There were a lot of people in the baggage claim area – several international flights must have come in at the same time.

We told Danny to meet us at Door 5D – the line of cars outside didn’t stop and we could find a spot of sidewalk to stand on (at this point, I was glad that we didn’t have to deal with a taxi).  After a bit of a wait (due to the volume of cars (BTW I did not see any taxis picking up people), Danny’s Honda showed up – we loaded our bags and we were headed out of the craziness of ORD T5. 

Danny dropped us off and Christian helped us get our bags down the stairs and got our mail for us. 

Danny had brought us some food (tomatoes and pepperoncini from the garden along with some eggplant lasagna (also home grown).  We were tired and jet lagged but I did eat some of it.

Just happy to be home.  It was actually warm and that was nice after a month of essentially cold and gray weather.


Thoughts about Food and Drink

I thought I would put together some information should we wind up on another Azamara Cruise in the future:

Good dishes

Breakfast – can’t go wrong with waffles/pancakes with cottage cheese and jams.  I had this breakfast 28 out of the 30 days on board.  I made my own coffee Americano by mixing regular coffee and hot water (1:1) in a to go cup.  Arranging to have cottage cheese with my name on it worked out really well – the suits and wait staff in Windows were great.

Lunch – Generally the salad bar was good (I especially like the sun-dried tomatoes) – Best dressing – Thousand Island.  Ranch was unusual and inconsistent.  Beyond Burgers were OK and I tried the Patio Tuna Wrap only once (the tuna was OK but the veggies along with it have been changed from asparagus to lettuce).  The tuna salad (in my opinion was the best on any ship) – that along with tomatoes, onions, and pickles made for a great tuna sandwich.  The soups were all good – Tomato, Cream of Tomato, Mushroom, Cream of Potato, Cream of Ratatouille (yes), and Pistou.

Dinner- The standard Salmon was good – prepared best and fresh on the Patio.  Mashed potatoes on the Patio – delicious.

The kosher options were plentiful and we tried them all – Best items: Spaghetti Bolognese, Stuffed Bell Peppers, Chicken Schnitzel, Shepherds Pie.  Ellen did not like the duck in any form.  The braised ribs (more like Brisket) was very good also.

I was also able to order special meals like pasta pesto and pesto aglio olio – both of which were really good. The suits were more than helpful in making sure we had items we could eat.

Bar – Best drinks – Disaronno Sours and Curacao Blue Sours.  Strawberry and Banana Daiquiris also.  I drank a lot of club soda on this cruise – a cheap date.

Service – we had Table 1 – best table.  We also scored Table 18 (aft with a window) a few times.  The waitstaff and suits also picked up on our special orders and started the meals right away for our time in the Discoveries Restaurant was fast and efficient (and the food nice and hot).  No more two hour dinners.

Bottom Lining It. It was a cold and gray cruise but you don’t get to Greenland and Iceland every day.  I also thought that seeing the more remote parts of Canada was interesting and our time in Quebec City was great (expecially the Azamazing Evening Concert).  Guest Relations was helpful throughout the whole cruise solving accomodation issues and anything else.  Devi and Katja and the two guys did a great job.  Working with Bernardo was great. The afternoon concerts in the Living Room were a good idea and a way to break up long days.

August 19, 2025 – At Sea – North Atlantic Ocean –

August 19, 2025 – At Sea – North Atlantic Ocean – Cloudy - Probably 50F

A no photo day.

My talk this morning, “Forensic Detectives: The Search for Jack the Ripper”, is at 10 AM so I was up (too) early and was at the Windows Café when it opened at 7:30 PM.  There were only a handful of people up there (due to the time change).  It took a while but I got my pancakes and the cottage cheese was there; the sour cream was most likely some kind of yoghurt.  Along with a smidge of cereal, the breakfast was good.

I went to the theater a little early and noticed that about 20 people or so were waiting for the doors to open.  The doors did and I went in and set up.  The attendance was good – a near full house.  I am competing today with the Quest Brunch and food is a worthy adversary.  I started and noticed that the clicker wasn’t working.  I unplugged the dongle but no luck.  I exited program mode and re entered – at the same time, the AV guy came down to help and before he got to the computer, the clicker started working.  I’ll have to check into this because this was the first time this clicker hasn’t worked.  Battery maybe?

The talk went well and a nice final round of applause.  I have gotten more direct positive feedback on this ship than on any previous cruise.  So, the final count was seven presentations – all full houses.  I chatted a bit with Ron Orenstein and he mentioned something I might be able to use – the term “gumshoe” might be related to the Metro cops putting rubber strips on their boots.

I changed my clothes and Ellen and went to the brunch.  I am always hoping for herring and there was none.  I had some lox and cream cheese on a brioche.  I don’t think I had any lox on this cruise and it was very good.

We spent a little time up in the Living Room and then Ellen started on the packing.  We timed our laundry bags just right (four of them) so that the last one arrived in time for the packing.  Essentially, all of the clothes in the suitcases are clean.

I did a final check on our disembarkation instructions and noticed that while I was told we would be Group Green 7, our tags said Green 14.  I went to Guest Relations and they indeed were the wrong tags (a result of changing rooms).  I got the right tags and checked the account – all good.

I got an email indicating that check-in for our flights was now open.  I checked both of us in and indicated how many bags we would have.  I got an electronic Boarding Pass that said “TSA Pre” but I doubt there is such a thing at KEF.  When we flew Icelandair here, we needed paper boarding passes to get on the plane.

We took in VIBZ pre-dinner set before going to the Discoveries Restaurant for the last dinner.  I pre-ordered Pasta Pesto – I also had an iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing (I ordered it but then we were told we had the wrong menu – our waiter still ordered that salad for me and it was really good).  The Pesto was absolutely perfectly prepared and I finished it all.  Ellen had the broiled salmon (the standard menu) on a large Cesar Salad.  I put some of the salmon on my pasta to add some protein.  All good.  We stayed for a rare dessert and coffee – I had the NY Cheesecake (still not served cold) and Ellen had Molten Chocolate Cake. 

A final Mosaic Café stop for coffee and tea and to the room.

The bags went out at 9:30 PM.

The lights went out at around 10:20 PM.


August 18, 2025 – At Sea – North Atlantic Ocean – Cloudy Drizzly – 53F

August 18, 2025 – At Sea – North Atlantic Ocean 

There were some wiggles in the early morning.

I couldn’t find the cottage cheese so I had two eggs OM with pancakes – Very good.  

It was very foggy out there at breakfast.

Ron Orenstein got the 12:15 PM Speaking Slot and I am going on after the Magician, Eric Walton, who is doing three shows today because of the unscheduled sea day. 

I am back to Tuna Salad Sandwiches and soup (the soup on the ship has been excellent).  Today, it’s “Cream of Tomato” and it was very good.  

I got to the theater about 2:40 PM and Eric (the magician) and audience members were working out visual puzzles – not really magic but interesting. Eric was still going around 3 PM and when he was finished I set up fast and was underway.  I had another full house and the talk – “Forensic Detectives: Identifying America’s Fallen Heroes” seemed more effective and better attended than it did on the first cruise. 

At 5:30 PM, we went to the Living Room to listen to Stephanie and Francisco (band guitarist) perform an acoustic set.  

They were pretty good but at 6 PM, we went down to dinner in the Discoveries Restaurant.  We continue to get Table 1 which is a great table.  I started with a salad – the only dressing that works for me on this cruise is Thousand Island.  The salad, which was mostly tomatoes and donated croutons from Ellen’s Cesar Salad, was pretty good.  The entrees came quickly.  Ellen’s lamb looked good – two big hunks of meat along with rice and some candied or marinated beets or cabbage (couldn’t tell) that I really liked in an earlier dish. 

There was something wrong with my entrée – instead of pesto, the dish was a tomato sauce covered pasta with mushrooms and tomatoes.  I asked the waiter and he said it was pasta pesto.  I doubled checked with a suit who has been taking our orders and he said right away that there was a problem with the dish.  In a few minutes, the pesto pasta arrived and it was really good.  I think what I had was the Pasta Neopolitana from the Kosher Menu.  It tasted like the Bolognese without the meat.  I just wasn’t sure what it was.  I might even order that again should I get the chance one day.

I ordered the pesto again for tomorrow night and Ellen said she would order from the menu.

We spent the evening in the Mosaic Café both of us drinking tea.

A revised itinerary with all the missed ports was placed in our stateroom - post facto.

Time Change: Clocks move forward one hour to put us on Reykjavik Time.

August 17, 2025 – Qaqortoq, Greenland – Foggy Overcast – Cold – 49F

August 17, 2025 – Qaqortoq, Greenland 

Almost zero visiblity from the ship.  This is our fourth time in this town - we visited here on the first cruise.

This morning, the Windows Cafe was not crowded (bumpy night, maybe).  While Having my usual, but tasty, breakfast, I was treated to a view of the HAL Zuiderdam partly shrouded in fog.  This ship has a total capacity of about 3000 (guests and crew) or about the same number of folks living in Qaqortoq, Greenland's fourth largest city.

Quest arrived in Qatqortoq at 1 AM in the morning to get the best anchorage as there were two other ships here today.  Oceania Sirena, that we have been sailing with over the last few days and HAL Zuiderdam, my breakfast companion, off our port bow..  The fog rolled in and was so thick that the Zuiderdam disappeared until later in the morning.  The Sirena was still in the clear air.

About 10 AM, we got the “Open Tender” notification on the PA System so we went down to the tender pontoon and after a bit of a wait, hopped on a tender.  The tender was bobbing up and down in the waves so I was surprised that the tenders were operating – crew members were helping people get on the tenders.  The visibility was still low – I am glad the tender pilots know where the other ships are because I couldn’t see anything out there.  When we got to the pier, I couldn’t see any of the three ships here today and they were very close to the shore.   It is colder here today that our last couple of visits – no doubt due to the fog later shrouding the town.  

 

Maybe, as a means to deal with the cold, there was a "rest hut" (my term) right near the pier that looked like a place people could get out of the wind, rain, and cold.  

We took a different road today in Qaqortoq and got some better pictures of the Church of our Saviour and the river, which officially has no name, that runs through the town.  

The Mindebronden (Memorial) fountain in the main square was actually working but the water was just a trickle.  The fountain, composed of sandstone and bronze and featuring three whale sculptures, was completed in 1932 and is the oldest fountain in Greenland. 

We also saw some of the “Stone and Man” stone carvings, located just off the road near the tender pier.  We had missed them the last three times we have been here but not today.

Today, we walked as far as the bridge over the river so we got the full impact of the river.  

 

Ellen is looking for Wi-Fi to download some books to her Kindle.  The clerk is the souvenir store told us that there was no Wi-Fi available.  I looked at the caps and found a nice cap that fit and had a nice logo on the front but it was red and I don’t have any red hats.  The prices are still high – the cap was $19.  Another cap in the shop seemed to make a political statement.

The Café was closed so I still haven’t gotten my Greenlandic cup of coffee.

It was a bit cool out there so we returned to the tender pier and went back to the ship.  Quest was in the fog when the tendered returned.

Lunch in the Window’s Café today for me consisted of a Beyond Burger – I like them but they just seem too heavy for me.  I don’t know why because I eat them at home and they are light and tasty.

The Living Room was our afternoon destination.  It was also a good place to watch the fog lift and by mid afternoon, the fog left the city and the Zuiderdam once again became visible.

The Sun came out and the speedboats started crisscrossing the Bay.  It didn’t get a lot warmer but it was a lot nicer to look at.

The Captain came on the PA in the late afternoon and said that weather conditions were not good in Prince Christian Sound so it was not safe to enter the Sound.  He said we would be at Sea all day tomorrow.  When we went to the room to change I got a call from Bernardo.  I told him he could schedule “Identifying our Fallen Heroes” for tomorrow (he said it would be at 3 PM). 

Tonight is “Destination Showcase” which highlights local talent and food.  The talent in this case was two members of an Greenlandic Rock Group – I only picked up on one name Miki. 

We listened to a couple of their sons and stories in the Cabaret Lounge at 5:30 PM and then went to Discoveries for dinner.  By the way, our special meal orders are now being handled mostly by one suit – Dinky (his real name I checked).

Tonight we are back on the Kosher Train; we pre-ordered the Stuffed Peppers once again along with the Turkey and Stuffing and a backup order of Spaghetti Bolognese.  The dishes are never as good as the first time but the food was good.

We pre-ordered for tomorrow (Taste of India Night) – I ordered Pasta Pesto and Ellen ordered a Lamb Dish. 

There is a special Showtime tonight – “Broadway Review”.  The billing said that this show was actually put together on this cruise for this group of passengers.  It involved all of the Signature Singers and Dancers and even included Martin.  The Musicals featured included Les Miserables, Grease, Chicago, 

Wicked, Shrek and Rent.  The vocals were excellent especially considering that they were performed with a background track.  Some highlights: 

Stephanie did “The Wizard and I” 

and “I Dreamed a Dream”; 

Martin sang the obligatory “Bring Him Home”;

 the whole cast joined in “Seasons of Love” 

and “One Day More”.  

It was an absolutely wonderful Show. If there had been two shows that night, I would have gone to both.

The Captain said it might a bumpy night and early morning.

Sunday, September 7, 2025

August 16, 2025 – Paamiut, Greenland – Sunny – Yes – Sunny – 41F

August 16, 2025 – Paamiut, Greenland 

A long night – I avoided any drinks at dinner to make sure alcohol was not disrupting my sleep.  That wasn’t it.  I actually did fall asleep eventually and then overslept getting up at 7:45 AM.

Got up to the Windows Café at 8:15 AM; I was very tired and achy this morning and by the time I got up to the Café all of the tables on the port side (where the Sun was) were taken.  I decided to shake up my breakfast routine. This morning I had two pancakes (one with sour cream and cottage cheese and the other with an egg over medium).  Still the breakfast was good. 

Around 10:30 AM, after most of the breakfast crowd had left, I went back up the Café to catch up on my trip log.

Ellen came up and we had lunch up here.  I had a Beyond Burger (OK now that the cabbage and guacamole topping is gone) and Ellen scrounged around for something to eat. 

Quest arrived at Paamiut around 12:00 Noon and looked for a place to anchor.  The Oceania Sirena was already anchored.  There is sea ice out there 

but I was watching another process at work - two different water colors merging - silty, brown, water (kicked up by the current) and blue-green water from the open sea.  

Right now, the Captain is trying to find a safe place to anchor.  We could see Paamiut in the distance.

Well, Captain Dario was unsuccessful in finding a place to anchor. 

So we sailed on to Qatortoq creating another unscheduled sea day.

The day was spent up in the Living Room – once again taking in three kinds of trivia – hosted by members of the Entertainment Team – not always Bernardo.

Tonight was “Taste of Spain” – We took a break from our Kosher binge and had the Salmon and fixings from the Patio (eating inside Windows because of the cold).  The fish was good and the mashed potatoes even better.  The Spanish desserts were not that great – fruit was the best option.

There is no show tonight – “Liars Club” is taking place in the Cabaret Lounge.  We passed on that and went to the room.  All was not lost as we received our "plaques" for crossing the Arctic Circle.